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>>Tibetans in Nepal
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View from Nepal - Ngawang Ratutsang's monthly column
While estimates say that there are approximately 14,000 Tibetan refugees in Nepal, over 60,000 people in Nepal speak Tibetan, and areas such as Mustang and Langtang have large concentrations of Tibetan-Nepalese people. The cultures of Nepal and Tibet have strong links, and a religious crossover of Hinduism and Buddhism (both Newari and Tibetan) has resulted, with many Nepalese Hindus also worshiping at Buddhist monasteries, temples and stupas such as Boudanath and Swayambunath. Siddhartha Gautama, better known as Lord Buddha was born in Kapilavastu in Lumbini, an area of Southern Nepal, and around 10% of the population of Nepal are said to be Buddhist. However, as previously mentioned, a great crossover of Hinduism and Busshism has occurred (Hindus believe Buddha to be the ninth incarnation of Vishnu, the preserver God), as such, some associate Bhairab (a wrathful incarnation of Shiva) with the Tibetan deity Mahakala (a wrathful aspect of Chnresigs) and so on. At Boudanath, the worlds biggest stupa, large numbers of Nepalese Hindus and Buddhists are joined by Tibetans in circumambulating the stupa and prayer.
In the past, many Tibetan ethnic and tribal groups also migrated to Nepal, such as the Sherpas (In Tibetan, Shyar means East, and Pa means people). Nepal has only existed as a nation state since 1768, when Prithvi Naryan Shah unified the many kingdoms which existed in the land. Many areas already had significant Tibetan minorities, and partly as a result of inter-marriage, many Nepalese people have a distinct Tibetan or Mongoloid appearance. Traditionally, Nepalese and Tibetan people have always traded with one another, and Tibetan traders frequently travelled through Nepal to trade with Indian traders. Many of these traders used to pass through Kathmandu, which in turn influenced the local culture. Boudanth was frequently the start or end point of a long journey over the Himalayas for Tibetans. Although trade has existed between Nepalese and Tibetan people, the past has also seen conflict-in 1788, Prithvi Narayan Shah invaded Tibetan lands. The Tibetans asked the Manchu-Qing empire for protection, and together, the Tibetans and Manchus drove the Nepalese back to Nepal and counter-invaded before withdrawing shortly afterwards.
Within Kathmandu, there is a large Tibetan population. The majority of Tibetan refugees after 1959 have settled here, and land was even put aside by the King Mahendra, who supported Tibetan Independence and himself saw China as a threat. Non-governmental organisations such as the Red Cross also helped, and embassies of foreign countries, such as Switzerland have continued to provide support for Tibetan settlements. The Swiss embassy is just up the road from one such settlement, Ekantakuna in Jawalakhel, Lalitpur. Here, the main source of income for the Tibetan community is the Tibetan carpets woven locally (there is a small carpet factory in the area as well).
Since arriving in Kathmandu, many Tibetans have done very well for themselves. Most worked hard upon their arrival, allowing them to put money towards founding monasteries and temples. Many of the monasteries in Boudanath have been built largely funded by Tibetans earnings, and in Thamel, the central tourist area of Kathmandu, there are a number of Tibetan entrepreneurs. Tibetan culture has also contributed to the local economy through the souvenir trade, and some of the most popular souvenirs include Tibetan Thangkas, prayer wheels and prayer flags to name but a few. Thamel also has several Tibetan restaurants and hotels. The restaurants range from Momo shops such as the Dolma Momo Centre to the Yak (which has possibly the best curries in Kathmandu) and Decheling Garden Restaurant. Some Of Kathmandu's best Hotels are run by Tibetans, such as the excellent Hotel Utse and Lhasa Guest House.
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